Showing posts with label Yokohama. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Yokohama. Show all posts

Sunday, January 17, 2010

A day on the town: The first trip into Tokyo

From his quarters at the Army post in Zama, Maj. Gillham took a day pass into Tokyo and describes some things for the first time that will soon be very familiar to him.

Japan
2 Nov 45

Dearest Darling,

Got a pass yesterday and went into Tokyo.  It was quite a day.  I haven't had so much fun since I was in college.  This place is about 45 miles S.W. of Tokyo right out in the country.  Five of us, all majors who shared the same cabin on the ship, went in together.  We left here about 1000 and walked about a mile to the nearest electric railway station.  Only Maj. Chun and I could talk much Japanese and we were rusty.  We had no map and no idea of how to get anywhere, but we just kept trying to talk Japanese to everyone we saw and figured out how to get to Tokyo by making two transfers.  I had heard that the Japanese were the train-ridingest people on earth and now I believe it.  All trains were packed so that people had to climb in and out of the windows at stops.  They all carried either a big bundle or a baby or both.  We pay no fare and ride anything we want to.  I was amazed at the the electric railway system around Tokyo.  It is on a par with the I.C. in Chicago, only much more of it, and it is functioning smoothly in spite of tremendous bomb damage all around.  Yokohama is nothing but burnt out ruins and Tokyo was hit bad in spots.  The industrial areas are the worst, naturally.  The people have salvaged the burnt, rusty sheet metal from the roofs of the plants and constructed thousands of little huts out of them.  Chun and I talked to all the Japs near us and they were very interested in the fact that we could talk a little Japanese, and tried to be very helpful.  The rural areas are just about like I expected them.  Right now they are harvesting the rice.  In Tokyo I was a little surprised at how modern it was.  I knew it was a very large city, but I didn't expect wide, clean streets and beautiful modern buildings.  Some of them have been burnt out, but others are intact.  We went to the GHQ and there I saw several that I knew, including Col.  Dillard, Col. Clark from Chicago, Lt. Cmdr. Wilson, Maj. Raul (just out of hospital at Manila) and others.  They are all set up and you might think you were in the Pentagon Bldg in Washington, D.C., just to look around.  Most of them are living in the Dai-Ichi Hotel, a nice big modern hotel.  The big shots live at the Imperial Hotel.  The desk clerk, a Jap, told me there were 20 generals there at present.  It was about 3 PM when we were there but we talked our way into the kitchen and got them to fix us sandwiches and coffee.  Only field officers and above are allowed in the place.  We went back there for dinner that night -- the only thing we paid for during the whole day.  We went to a supply depot and drew two wool shirts, two pants, a sweater, and a combat jacket -- no charge.  Nearly everywhere we went we would hail a jeep and get a ride.  Kimonos are very high right now, Y500 to Y1,000, but the native population looks very well dressed, and I know they don't pay those prices, so after I get established I imagine I can get some cute things.

I don't know where I will be assigned yet, but may find out this afternoon.  A large per cent of this group is to go to Korea.

I washed all my dirty clothes this morning and took a sponge bath -- all this in my helmet.  I am ready to move now when I get the word.

I am afraid that your mail may be slow in catching up with me.

I want to get you one of these rigs for carrying a baby on your back.

Lots of love,

Bill


**************

The Imperial Hotel was the jewel of Tokyo hotels and was not damaged significantly during the war.  It was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright to replace the original hotel built in 1890.  Wright's hotel was completed in 1923 and was damaged slightly that same year in an earthquake.  It was designed in the "Mayan Revival" style that incorporated a pyramid motif and other features prominent in Mayan temples.  It was the primary billet of the upper echelon of the Supreme Command of the Allied Powers during the occupation of Japan.  After years of gradual demise, the hotel was demolished in 1968, although several sections, including the famous main entrance, were restored in local museums.


The Imperial Hotel, Tokyo, in the 1930s

Below is a clipping from the Pacific Stars and Stripes from October 1945 that Maj. Gillham included in a letter.  Across the top he has written, with his trademark misspelling, "This is no exageration."  You may have to click on the cartoon to get a bigger image.



Friday, January 15, 2010

Japan at last! Arrival at Yokohama

The first letter written on land was another V-Mail, giving a brief account of his arrival in Yokohama.  The return address reads:  Maj. W.T. Gillham, APO 22958, c/o PM San Francisco, Calif.

30 Oct 45

Dearest Darling,

We got into Yokohama last night and spent most of the night moving by truck & rail to Replacement Depot #4, about 25 or 30 miles from Tokyo, near the Atsugi Air Base.  It is an old Jap army cantonment and has just been occupied a few days, and everything is a mess, but I don't expect to be here long.  The boat trip was fine and on schedule.  Saw Fuji Yama as we came into the bay.  I am in fine shape, but you need to be.  Got my foot locker O.K.  I don't expect any mail for a while yet.

Lots of love,

Bill

***********




Modern-day view of Mt. Fuji from the Pacific Ocean,
with the U.S.S. Curtis Wilbur in the foreground.



Modern map of Tokyo Bay, showing Yokohama,
where the Mayo docked.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

The first long letter, while still en route to Japan

Two days after writing the brief V-Mail letter, while still aboard the U.S.S. Mayo, Major Gillham wrote a much longer letter to his wife in California describing the events leading up to embarkation and the voyage thus far.

25 Oct 1945
U.S.S. Adm. H.T. Mayo
Approx. 39 degrees N - 170 degrees E

Dearest Darling,

There is so much that I want to say to you and tell you about, that I am sure I will write about some of them twice, and omit others. As I have said before, when I write something in my diary I feel like I have written it to you. I have written several V-mail letters to you and the children, but I imagine all the mail from the ship will get off at the same time. Let me know which you get first. I also sent the children a fancy certificate about crossing the date line. I hear that V-mail may be discontinued soon, so you might also keep one of them as a souvenir.

It is now a week since I left you standing at the depot in Monterey with Martha in your arms. I can still see you all there waving good-bye. I am very proud of my fine family and sweet, pretty wife. I am sure that, come what may, we will have a lot of fun living.

I will now back up and try to bring you up to date and answer as many of the questions that may be in your mind as I can think of.

The trip to San Francisco was normal. We were on day coaches, but they were clean and not overcrowded. Several of the officers, including Captain Staunton, had their wives on the same train, and after a little arguing they were able to get them back to sit with them. I had a seat to myself, but doubled up with another officer, so Capt. & Mrs. Staunton could have a seat together. I sat by a Capt. Aiden who had been on the staff at Charlottesville, until recently. He is a very nice fellow and I still see a good deal of him aboard. I was surprised that the train went through a number of tunnels on the San Francisco peninsula before getting to the terminal. At the terminal our cars were switched off and taken down the street to about opposite Alcatraz and just below Telegraph Hill -- Pier 45.

We got off the train, were given cakes and coffee by the Red Cross, were pushed around by some Transportation Corps WACS, picked up our hand baggage, were given our stateroom number and went right up the gang plank without any delay. I was about the 4th or 5th aboard, and I got my Valopac up the gang plank without any trouble. In fact I think I was traveling lighter than most. It was about 1300 when we went aboard, and of course we couldn't get off any more after that. We were right opposite many of San Francisco's famous seafood eating places, but all we could do was look at the signs.

They gave us ham sandwiches about 1430 and that helped. Since then we have dined sumptuously -- steak three times and turkey once so far, but always good. Baked beans and brown bread at lunch today.

To get back to the chronology, that first afternoon I spent prowling around the ship and watching the rest of the troops come aboard. They loaded the last of the cargo -- electric fans for the Philippines, where I understand the ship will go after it disgorges us at Yokohama. (It is really much more fun to write without censorship, isn't it?) My cabin is forward on the port side of the main deck. It would normally have port holes but this ship was built without them.

There are eight of us in the room. (There were nine, but one Lt. Cmdr. went to join his WAC wife as I wrote you.) We have three triple-deckers, we each have a small locker, we have two wash basins, and a table that seats four. We have all our baggage in there with us, too. It is about size of Emily's and Monty's room. There is forced draft ventilation, it is only a few steps to the forward open deck, and just down the corridor the other way to the head and showers (fresh water!) They have a big plant aboard for converting sea water to fresh water. They also carry food for 5,000 men for 45 days. So I should do a little better than Capt. Bligh on his voyage after the mutiny on the Bounty. The book is entitled "Men against the Sea," and I have just finished reading it.

When the troops come aboard, an officer at the gang plank with the passenger list calls his last name and the soldier answers with his first name and middle initial and passes up the gang plank. -- Was just interrupted by another "Abandon Ship" drill. We surely should have that down pat if we should ever have to do it.

About 2100 two tugs nosed us out into the bay and turned us, and we got underway under our own power. It was foggy and fog horns were blaring as we went under the Golden Gate Bridge. It soon dissolved in the fog and the ship started heaving with the ground swells. I then went below and took a couple of sea sick pills. I think they helped, for although I was a little sick the next morning, I haven't missed a meal yet and have had a stupendous appetite all the time.

When I opened my diary that night to make an entry, I was very pleasantly surprised to find a sweet coded line written there.

Did you get the letter I wrote on shipboard that afternoon? The troop mail was closed, but I gave it to one of the ship's crew that had a letter of his own he was going to mail.

This ship is a new Navy transport commissioned last April and operated by the Coast Guard. It has made one trip around the world and this is its last trip in the service as it has been bought by the Matson Line for conversion to a luxury liner after this trip. It is 620 ft. long, draws 22 ft. and carries enough oil for a trip around the world without refueling.

As we left we could see big signs lighted up on each side of the bay saying "Welcome Home -- Well Done."

The first day out was clear and cool and good sailing. That night there was a beautiful full moon over the water. Many of the passengers were sea sick for the first two or three days. About the third day out we ran into a regular gale and the ship pitched heavily. Today we have come out into fair weather again.

There is such a hot political argument over Russia going on in here now that I will have to stop for a while.

26 Oct -- Took a "Cook's tour" of the ship today and learned a few more interesting things about her. It takes a ton of potatoes for one meal. They bake 1-1/2 tons of bread every day.

The thing that impressed me most was the deep indigo blue color of the Pacific. The foam in the ship's wake looks like bluing and you feel that you could dip your pen in the water and write with it.

We sighted one or two ships nearby every day. Outside of the first day out, the weather has been generally cloudy. As we went north on a great circle course it became colder and stormier. About the third day out we were in a regular gale and the big waves were two or three hundred feet from crest to crest. We were leading right into them and this made the ship pitch badly. The bow would go clear under at times. In our room it felt like you were riding up and down in an elevator all the time. When a big wave would break over the bow, the ship would shiver all over. Then she would creak and groan and dive down the far side of the wave. -- And this is a ship over 600 ft. long! After we turned south, the weather has gotten milder and milder until tonight is right balmy with a light rain. The albatrosses that follow us don't seem to mind the cold or the gales at all. They sail right into the teeth of the strongest wind without ever flapping a wing.

One of my roommates is a Maj. Chun, a native full-blooded Hawaiian. He is of the native royalty on his mother's side. He is a very unaffected and likeable fellow and I have become very fond of him. He is as happy and carefree and unrestrained as a child. Yet he is very intelligent and has an excellent education. He has seen a lot of action in this war. Once a Jap shot at him from only twelve feet, but missed. He has been on several of Bishop Univ's anthropological expeditions all over the south seas which were conducted by the author of that book on the subject that I read at Bryant's.

There are generally a good many poker games going on aboard, but I haven't gotten in any of them yet. I am sorry to say that I haven't studied much Japanese either. I haven't felt like doing any heavy concentrating. I sleep about 10 or 12 hours a day and eat like I was starved.

27 Oct. -- Went through the engine room today with the chief engineer. It was very interesting. The ship cost about $13,000,000. The stills can make 100,000 gals. of fresh water per day. It carries enough fuel to go 1-1/2 times around the world without refueling.

The weather is now much warmer now that we are near 30 degrees N Lat. and the days are longer. We have had showers off and on all day.

We are approaching the end of the voyage and I may not have a chance to write much more in this letter. We are due to land Monday [October 29] sometime. I don't know what we have in store for the future but it will be interesting to see how it works out.

In all this chaotic world there is one sure and certain thing in my life. It is you, my darling, and my love for you. I got my one big break when I married you, and if I never get another break I am still amply rewarded. This trip may be an interesting interlude, but I shall constantly look forward to the time when we can be together again.

I will send you my permanent APO just as soon as possible. Use it in preference to this temporary one as soon as you get it. Let me know all about how you and the children are getting along. If you ever have to get an emergency message to me quickly, I believe that the Red Cross is the best bet.

28 Oct -- We are due to land tomorrow, and the mail will soon be closed for mailing aboard, so I must wind this up. It has been very rough today with the ship running parallel to the waves instead of across them. This has caused a heavy roll. Spray goes clear over the whole ship at times, but it has been fun since nobody is sick now. At mess the chair you are sitting in will slide clear across the floor if you don't hold on to something. I have taken a few pictures and hope they turn out good. I managed to get in most of them as you asked.

Write often. I will live from one of your letters to the next. Tell Emily and Monty I think of them often and love them very much. Give Martha a kiss for me. And remember that above all I love you.

Bill

*********


The book Men Against the Sea is the second in a trilogy written by Charles Nordhoff and James Norman Hall giving a fictionalized account of the mutiny on the Bounty, which occurred on April 28, 1789.  The book was originally published in 1933.  The first book was titled Mutiny on the Bounty and the third Pitcairn's Island.

Below are some photographs of Pier 45 today.  The pier is now in the middle of the Fisherman's Wharf tourist district and is the home of the submarine U.S.S. Pampanito, shown in the top picture.  Coit Tower, atop Telegraph Hill, can be seen in the far background.  The second picture is a view of Pier 45 looking toward the bay, with the island of Alcatraz visible in the background to the right.  The third photo is a map of the northeastern portion of the San Francisco peninsula, with a black arrow illustrating the location of Pier 45.
 






Here is a photo of the "fancy certificate about crossing the date line" that he talks about in the first paragraph.  If you click on the photo, you can see a much larger image: